Q. When coloring resistant gray hair, is it more effective to use extra ammonia or extra peroxide volume?

A. Generally, the higher the alkalinity (especially in the form of ammonia) the more ‘open’ the cuticles become resulting in better color deposit. This is also why demi-permanent (deposit-only) colors with lower alkalinity tend to have less deposit and permanency even if used with high volume peroxides.  (‘Ammonia-free’ permanent hair color products still contain high levels of alkalinity).

High volume developers tend to ‘loosen’ the hair structure to some degree in the presence of alkalinity, but not to the same extent as high alkalinity. Therefore they are not as effective.

There is always a point of diminishing returns with either alkalinity (ammonia) or with higher volumes of peroxide. Beyond an optimum level, which differs with differing hair types, the damage resulting from the excess of chemicals outweighs their added benefits.

Various brands of hair color may range significantly in alkalinity. It is always recommended to follow the hair color instructions as changes that may work with one color may cause adverse effects with another.

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